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Goa News |'Dethli' to stage stylish comeback (By: RUPESH SAMANT (PTI), PANAJI)

Saturday 08 August 2026

News Analysed, Opinions Expressed

Society | Heritage

'Dethli' to stage stylish comeback

 

Baburao Tilve weaving Dethli

From the world of women working in paddy fields to the glamorous models on the ramp, vanishing Goan fabric is raring to make a comeback in style.

Goa’s traditional Kunbi saree fabric, that made waves at the Wills lifestyle India Fashion week some months back, is being used as a tool to empower rural women by a Mumbai-based textile designer.
 
Poonam Pandit, a textile designer, who associated with Goa-born nationally renowned fashion designer Wendel Rodricks to get the saree in the chic form, has decided to take the project ahead on her own.
 
“Wendel has assured me to give the required support to market the product,” she said conceding that Kunbi saree is on the wane in the state, and so also are the weavers.
 
In Goa, Kunbi saree was originally worn by kunbi and Gawda tribe women, who were basically paddy field workers. In the modern age, the tradition to drape kunbi saree is almost extinct.
 
Pandit came across just one person, that too a septuagenarian from Pernem taluka, the lone person who is weaving these sarees.
 
73-year-old Baburao Babaji Tilve, who is fondly called as `kaka’, was the lone soldier for this dying tradition.  The kunbi saree concept itself was fading from the state as there were hardly any ladies wiling to wear them.
 
Along with kunbi saree fabric, the stress is also laid on reviving generation old products like nine-yard sarees, panchas, pudwe (dhoti) and kashti (lace). Pandit feels that the fabric can be used as odhni (scarf) or even dress material as it is 100 per cent cotton.
 
The thought of reviving Goa’s fabric germinated in the mind of Wendel, who presented contemporary version of Kunbi saree in the Wills lifestyle India Fashion week in November, last year.
 
“It was a same saree worn in same style with a knot on the left shoulder,” she said.
 
Pandit said that the wooden frame dobby looms can be made available for the women self help groups.
 
She said that several women’s organisation to train rural women in weaving these sarees. “We can provide them the machines required,” she said adding that women would be trained to produce something which is originally goan.
 
“Goa had its own textile, which is currently missing. The women can be skilled through six to eight months training in this field,” Pandit explained.
 
During international women’s day, Pandit interacted with women’s organizations in Panaji. She has also initiated talks with Bailancho Saad, a prominent women’s organization to start `handloom weaving centre.’


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